By Niki Bruce
Online Editor, herworld.com
niki@sph.com.sg

 

AS I'VE mentioned in a previous blog, one of the things I love about Singapore is the fact that one can be on holiday and never have to leave the city as there is just so much to do here.

Something I've been hankering after since I arrived here, was a visit to the Peranakan Museum in Armenian Street.

Originally the first Asian Civilisations Museum, the building that now houses the Peranakan Museum is a lovely example of early colonial architecture. Completed in March 1912, the Tao Nan School has been described as being in the 'eclectic classical style'.

However, the layout of the building is apparently also based on the Straits Settlements bungalows, according to the museum website. Certainly the towering central hall surrounded by various rooms and balconies on all four sides, have a similar feel to the traditional Peranakan homes one can visit in Malacca and Penang.

The Peranakan Museum is described as being a "boutique museum" that offers "the finest and most comprehensive collection of Peranakan artefacts in the world", according to their website.

While the Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum in Malacca, gives viewers a detailed look at the daily life of one Peranakan family, the Peranakan Museum is more about looking at the Peranakan people as a whole.

However, I did find the overview a little general, particularly in the areas of daily life, habits, customs and culture. The Peranakan Museum has a very detailed display on a traditional Peranakan marriage, though, which takes up a whole floor in itself and the sections on food, worship and death are quite detailed as well.

What was interesting about the Peranakan Museum, was the information about the various types of Peranakan peoples – I was vaguely aware that there were also mixed marriages between ethnic Chinese and Indians and Indians and Malays, but wasn't aware that they also had their own complex cultures – the Jawi Peranakan and the Chitty Melaka.

Overall the main museum with its permanent exhibitions is quite interesting; but would be rather boring I'd expect if you are either a Peranakan yourself or have visited before.

The interactive sections, however, were quite good – particularly Gallery 6 and it's three different telephone conversations on three different phones going across the years. Conversations in Gallery 10 was also quite interesting as actual people gave their interpretations of what it means to be Peranakan in this day and age.

What was the major draw for this visit was Baba Bling: The Peranakans and Their Jewellery, a new exhibition that is running until December 13.

I have to say, though, that the name is a bit of a misnomer – the exhibition repeatedly said that the "babas", the male Peranakans, didn't actually wear all that much jewellery! It is the heritage of the Nynonyas that is on show here.

Set up over two floors, the exhibition is literally a-bling with stunning examples of Peranakan jewellery – there are broaches, rings, buttons, bangles, earrings and belts ranging from the early 19th century to the some very contemporary pieces.

The only shortfall of the exhibition is the lack of personal connection to the pieces. The bulk have come from personal and family collections, and more information about the women who commissioned and wore these lovely pieces of jewellery would have been fascinating.

Still, there's an amazing amount of beautiful work to see. One of my favourite pieces is the "Prince of Wales" kerosang – a set of three traditional broaches decorated with the feather of the Prince of Wales – and I really loved the "mourning" jewellery, which is made of silver and pearls rather than the more common gold and diamonds.

But the diamonds are magnificent – so much so that they would put any self-respecting hip-hop mogul in the shade. There are some beautifully cut stones that are literally "bling-tastic".

Another interesting fact to note is that many pieces were actually melted down and the diamonds re-used; a thrifty way for the Peranakan matrons to have new jewellery.

The exhibition also traces the rise and fall of the Peranakan community, showing how outside events, like increased incomes and World War II, affected the designs of their jewellery.

If you haven't made the effort to visit the Peranakan Museum, it's a great way to while away a couple of hours. There is also a small shop with some lovely – but expensive – gifts available. Just a couple of doors down at True Blue you can indulge in some sumptuous Peranakan food; make sure you book though.

Baba Bling: The Peranakans and Their Jewellery runs until December 13 at the Peranakan Museum, 39 Armenian Street, about a 10 minute walk from City Hall MRT station and is open from 1-7pm on Monday and from 9.30am-7pm from Tuesday to Sunday. It's also open until 9pm on Friday. Entry is $6.

The Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum is in Malacca on Heeren Street in the Old Town. It is closed on Sundays but otherwise is open from 10am-12.30pm and 2pm-4.30pm. Entry is RM8 and it's worth getting a tour guide.