ON SUNDAY, a group of sailors in England celebrated Singapore's birthday by unfurling familiar little red and white flags and posing for a photo.

They are a group of Singaporeans and Singapore residents representing the country in the Clipper Race, a round-the-world sailing competition.

From L to R: Uniquely Singapore skipper Jim Dobie with crew members Tan Pek Yew, Lisa Walden, Karan Teo, Nicole Ho and Bart Kregersman.
PHOTO: Keppel

Like them, I got to celebrate on a boat too, albeit much closer to home.

After four long days at sea, my sailing class received a treat on Sunday – we got to watch the parade fireworks just outside Marina Bay.

Off we went that evening to the Barrage. As Apache helicopters droned overhead, we nosed our way into the herd of party boats floating a good two miles from the platform. It was the closest anyone could get without being shooed off by the coast guard.

Dusk fell. The city skyline glittered. With no television onboard for us to catch the show, we dished out dinner instead and chit-chatted, even engaging in a brief nautical battle with other boats using homemade water-bombs.

Finally, the first sparks of fireworks flowered in the sky.

We cracked open our Heinekens and cranked up Smashing Pumpkins on the stereo. As Billy Corgan wailed "Tonight/ tonight's so bright", the night sky bloomed a brilliant red and gold in the distance.

Watching fireworks. Getting a clear shot wasn't easy with a rocking boat.
PHOTO: Tessa Wong

Three minutes later, it was all over. "Back to work, guys," said our instructor Lynette.

Night sailing is a whole different kettle of fish. The rising wind allows for good progress, but also dries out your eyes as you squint into the inky darkness, trying to make out the various warning lights.

Your mind has to concentrate on not only guiding the boat at the right point of sail, but also figuring out what those winking dots on the ocean mean.

Red, green, red – that means I should head to port right? Or is it starboard? And is that dark shape looming ahead just a lightless patch of sea, or am I about to crash into a ship?

It was befuddling, and slightly nervewracking, for this first-time sailor.

But despite my growing fatigue, I appreciated the rare chance to see Singapore in a different light.

Nightfall reveals a mysterious glittering city floating beyond Marina Bay. Cloaked in darkness, the solid tankers and dreary oil refineries are defined only by their bobbing and winking beacons.

What did I see? I saw an unearthly Martian citadel as we glided by Pulau Bukom, its refinery towers a glowing morass of red minarets.

I saw St John's Island as a dusky hump in the ocean, its surprisingly womanly curves punctuated at the top by the pure whiteness of a warning light.

It was close to midnight, and I was getting as grumpy and tired as an old sea captain. But surrounded by these otherworldly sights, I couldn't help but feel lucky to be sailing in Singapore.

Tessa Wong's competent crew course was sponsored by Keppel. This is the last instalment, read the first part here.