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Rupali Karekar
Assistant to Editor
I would do it all again
June 18, 2009 Thursday, 06:15 AM
Rupali Karekar describes the second half of her holiday to Vietnam.

WHEN I wrote about my scuba-diving and canoeing experience in Vietnam, one reader suggested that I need not have gone that far for that kind of divine experience, when I can easily enjoy it in some exotic locations nearby.

But my adventure tour to Vietnam did not focus only on the beaches and sea. And while I did have a great time diving, singing to myself while canoeing in the serenity of the fabulous waters of Catba Island, as well as dozing off on the deck of my house boat in the middle of the day as a gentle breeze lulled me to sleep — I also enjoyed my bicycle rides in the villages of Ninh Binh and quiet walks in the mountains of Mai Chau.

vietnam travel story
Fabulous waters and beaches of Catba Island.
PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

My journey to Catba Island ended on the fourth day of my northern Vietnam tour, and I took a bus ride to Hai Phong from where I proceeded to a long but picturesque ride to Ninh Binh (pronounced Ning Bing) — a splendid patch of green that was quite a contrast to the blue waters of Halong Bay.

A quick boat ride along a small rivulet in the area opened up a hidden world of floating rice fields, neatly separated by respective farmers by skillful plantation of the rice saplings, and marked by the thinnest of twigs plonked into the muddied grounds.

I was surrounded by huge rocks made of limestone and my boat had to pass through three cave-like openings in these rocks to reach the other side.

vietnam travel story
A quiet boat ride that led to a number of caves.
PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

The dark caves were so small that at times I had to bend down to touch my nose to my knees to avoid getting a bump on the head. They were so narrow that two boats would have to wrestle each other to make it to the other side.

vietnam travel story
Passing through three cave-like openings in the rocks.
PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

The rivulet was lined on both sides by rice fields floating on the water, with farmers submerged waist deep in the fields while they harvested the crops.

vietnam travel story
Rice fields lining the river in Vietnam. PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

The afternoon was spent cycling in the village, avoiding the huge patches of rice grains occupying the roadsides, where they had been  laid out for drying. Manouvering my bicycle through these hurdles was an adventure in itself.

vietnam travel story
Rice drying on the side of the road. PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

Amazing as the view in Ninh Binh was, it faded in beauty to the countryside of Mai Chau.

Hidden in the mountains of north Vietnam, this tiny paradise is a tourist hotspot, mostly for its quiet greenery but also for the unique experience of staying with the locals in stilt houses.

Nearly 100 villagers provide modest accomodation to tourists in an adjacent house, which qualifies as an outhouse to the main structure. The smallest room can accomodate four people, who are provided with nothing more than a mattress, covers and a mosquito net to sleep at night.

vietnam travel story
Villager outside stilt house in Mai Chau. PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

However, the fields are a nature-lovers' playground, where a simple walk can stretch for hours as smiling faces greet you and welcome you to their little world.

Just do not be bothered by the various grass-hoppers who occasionally land on you at any time of the day. If you manage to catch some, they can be quite a delicacy when roasted or fried for dinner. I was challenged to try one out, although I have to confess, I chickened out.

I am sure there are amazing places to see in South East Asia and most of them are quiet near. But, the seven days I spent in Vietnam — with its good food, friendly people and amazing countryside — were worth every penny I spent.

vietnam travel story
Vietnamese sunset. PHOTO: Rupali Karekar

I do not regret going that far for a holiday. In fact, given half a chance I would do it again.



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Total comments: 2
singam
June 20, 2009 Saturday

I totally agree with you about your appreciation for Vietnam and its people. I was a Aid-worker at the Refugee-Camp in S'pore after the war when hundreds of boat people arrived here at our shores . We heard so negative things about Vietnam, but it take one to go personally and live with the local people and interact with them to get the true picture of Vietnam and its people. I have been to several places , and June 30th.I'll be making my seventh trip, I'm deeply touched by the hospitality of the people even though there is such vast language barrier. Now I have friends who are ex-Vietcongs who accomodate me in their homes in the province, who were innocent warriors who accuatlly fought for freedom from foriegn domination.
Now I'm invited evry Tet Festival to particpate as one of the family member.
Rupali, thanks for your article and the beautiful pictures.

Singam

comment 5540 | Offensive? Report this comment
Resigned
June 19, 2009 Friday

Yes, and another reader said the following (which is a little more important than the relative merits of Vietnam vs Lombok).

1) You are absolutely mad to have gone diving in open waters without taking lessons. Approved courses such as Padi require you to undergo several days of theory and practical sessions in swimming pools.
2) It was irresponsible of you to write this up as it might encourage other "mad" people to try the same - with potentially tragic consequences.
3) The tour agency operator in Singapore should be struck off.
4) It IS your responsibility to report what the agency encouraged you to do. Can't do anything about the Vietnamese equivalents, but that should be their problem.

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