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Traffic, tanks and snakes

Wang Meng Meng gets up close and personal with Fandi Ahmad in Indonesia.

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Published on October 21st, 2009
 

YOU have heard of F1. But have you heard of F2?

More of that later but first, there is the little matter of trying to get back to my hotel in central Jakarta.

I spent the entire morning and early afternoon in Bogor, a city about one and a half hours outside Jakarta.

Singapore's favourite footballing son Fandi Ahmad had invited me to watch his Pelita Jaya team train.

Yours truly was in town to keep tabs on national players Noh Alam Shah, Baihakki Khaizan, Mustafic Fahrudin and Ridhuan Muhamad, who had all signed for Indonesia Super League (ISL) teams.

Being a kind host, Fandi and his assistant, another ex-Lion, Kadir Yahaya, offered to drive me back to the capital in their Kijang, an ubiquitous people carrier common on Indonesian roads.

As we weaved in and out of the heavy traffic, Fandi and Kadir made it crystal clear that it is not just pure footballing ability that will ensure success in the ISL.

There is the wrath of Mother Nature to contend with.

Kadir said: "Just a few days ago, strong tremors hit Jakarta but I thought it was going to be an earthquake. I took no chances, grabbed my laptop and just ran out of my office fearing for my life."

Inefficiency can be a problem as well.

This journalist's 1pm flight from Jakarta to Malang was delayed to 3.40pm without notice.

At the departure gate, passengers were finally told that Malang airport was closed and the flight would be diverted to Surabaya.

Airline staff said that it would be a two-hour bus ride from Surabaya to Malang. In truth, the journey took four and a half hours.

At one stage, the highway sunk due to gas exploration works gone wrong. It took an hour to make the 6km detour.

"This is very normal," Fandi said  matter of factly, never taking his eye off the road.

"Flights are cancelled or delayed without notice. You just make sure you arrive at the airport early and wait for the news."

As the Kijang expertly swerved left and right to dodge motorcycles and overtake slower vehicles, Fandi and Kadir spoke animatedly about the crazy travelling teams have to do to play 34 games a year.

It takes 10 hours flying time to reach Papua, home of ISL champions Persipura Jayapura, a trip that involves a landing approach that requires the 20-seater propeller plane to fly low and in between two misty mountains.

"I may be the coach but even I get tired from the travelling," Fandi, who was at the wheel, lamented.

Even the short trips can be troublesome.

Baihakki and Mustafic have been quick at making friends at Persija. And one of their new buddies is Bambang Pamungkas.

Already, the Indonesia star striker has briefed the duo on the club's deadly rivalry with Persib Bandung, who are a two-hour drive away from Jakarta.

"Bambang showed us a video of the road trip to Bandung," revealed Baihakki.

"We will take the coach from Jakarta and it will stop at the tollway just before the border to Bandung. We will cross the border on foot and board the two tanks that will be waiting for us.

"Two armoured trucks full of soldiers will also escort us into the stadium. It will be normal if we have to wait three hours in the dressing room after the game as there will be lots of fighting in the stands.

"Even after three hours, the tanks will be hit by all kinds of missiles when we eventually leave the stadium."

Then, there is also the small matter of getting up in the morning.

While most S-League teams train in the evenings, ISL clubs are at at work at the crack of dawn.

"I'm really not a morning person," was how Mustafic summed up his experience so far with Persija, whose trainings start at 7.30am.

"The club trains at an army camp outside the city and there are big traffic jams along the way. That means I have to be up at 5.30am."

Rock hard pitches can be another problem.

Ridhuan showed me his toes, all 10 of them blackened with blood clots beneath the nails.

"I can wear boots made of synthetic material back in Singapore," he said.

"But I have to wear leather ones now in Indonesia. Running on the fields here can be really painful for your feet."

With Indonesia a vast archipelago of 17, 508 islands, the country boasts a wide spectrum of people.

For Kadir, the cultural diversity has its funny side, too.

He said: "Just the other day, a python appeared on the training pitch. We ran for our lives.

"But this is nothing to Yoann Ibo, who has seen all kinds of wildlife in his native Papua. He was so happy to see the snake that he ran after the python, wrestled it and proudly showed it to us."

Before we knew it, what was supposed to be a 90 minute drive back to Jakarta was over in about half the time.

It is thanks to Fandi's wonderful, and new found, driving ability.

Having been coaching Pelita since 2006, the 47-year-old has adapted extremely well to the unique demands of Indonesian and ISL life.

"You just have to give in to the culture here," Fandi said. "The more you try to fight it, the more frustrated you will get. It's better to just blend in and go with the flow."

And who was it who said that overtaking is difficult in a street circuit?

Kadir is full of praise for his friend's skills behind the wheel.

His verdict: "This is even faster than F1. This is F2 - Fandi 2."

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