IN KUALA LUMPUR

WHO contributed to Malaya’s independence? What was the role of the Chinese, and the Indians? How did they get along with the Malays? What legacy did the British leave us?

The answers in the history textbooks rarely satisfy everyone.

Some years ago, the Malaysian Chinese Association complained that the role of Chinese leaders like Yap Ah Loy have virtually disappeared from textbooks.

Former Malayan communists said their role in fighting for independence had gone unacknowledged. But in his memoirs published this week, former Information Minister Mohamed Rahmat disagreed that they had a role.

History is far from being a dry and dusty subject in Malaysia. It is very much part of the soul-searching that underpins the changing racial dynamics in Malaysia.

But it is not just confined to political squabbles.

An idiosyncratic historical tour of Kuala Lumpur that I joined last Sunday was enlightening in its take on race relations a century ago.

It was led by Malaysian writer Kam Raslan.

A motley group of tourists and Malaysians, we walked through the oldest part of KL built by Chinese tin-miners who came to the region to seek  their fortunes. (These days it seems to be a "Little Nepal" as migrant workers congregate there.)

The tin-miners survived disease and deplorable living conditions, and developed the area where the Gombak and Klang rivers meet. It was a hard life.

Apparently, Yap Ah Loy's men would stand at a bridge nearby to shoot at crocodiles as boats from Klang docked.

Locals and tourists enjoy an alternative view of Kuala Lumpur's history on Mr Kam's walking tour of the city. PHOTO: Carolyn Hong

But Mr Kam pointed out that it would be a misconception that KL was an entirely Chinese creation. There were also many Malays there — some tin-miners, some farmers — although most of them lived further away along the coast.

"That was before the British came. There was a mutually beneficial working relationship between the Chinese and Malays, without a referee like the British, or in these days, Umno," he said, to much laughter.

Interesting. On foot, we took a closer look at the architectural beauties that the British built and the old shophouses, and ended at a Chinese temple built by Yap Ah Loy. His portrait is in there.

Mr Kam's tour is part of a History series by an arts group, the Instant Café Theatre. It includes conversations, performances, and films.

For more information go to www.instantcafetheatre.com.